OK, I’ve only just found my notebook and it’s 8pm on day 2. I’m going to have to write up day 1 from memory. Here goes.
My logic of joining the longest queues let me down once again, as in Britol Airport I was actually in the queue for the flight to Budapest. Nice as it is in Budapest; it wasn’t where I wanted to go today. I was tutting to myself at how 2 desks with girls on were empty and they just sat there chatting. It was in fact, where I supposed to check in. The smug Ryanair man told me when I’d finally got to the front of the queue. I actually think he took great pleasure in charging people for even being 0.3 kilos overweight. I reckon he got a kick out of his job.
Aaaaaanyway - all checked in and beered up in the departure lounge (me, not the plane), we departed east.
Yet again I chose the seat in front of a riggling, screaming child. Biological clock spectacularly stopped ticking for the next 2 1/2 hours.
Riga airport surprised me: it felt more like Schiphol in Amsterdam, or even Frankfurt. It was so modern! Not even a sniff of sovietness about it. The motorways and shopping centres outside looked decididly Western Europen too.
Because Ryanair landed ahead of schedule, thanks partly to their passenger hurding methods, I was able to catch the last bus into the centre - 10.30pm. Now: I hate taxis for 2 reasons - they’re a rip off (especially for tourists) and you miss out on being a “proper” local.
Saying that, I guess not many people think the way I do, because the queue for the taxis was huge…whereby the one of the bus was tiny. I did a further Random Act of Kindness by paying for the 2 people in front of me on the bus because they only had euros. It felt quite good - should do this more often.
When we arrived at “Kathedrale” where I needed to get off (found by luck, not expertise) I was so utterly lost. Hotel directions simply say take bus 22a to Kathedrale - which was what I did. So…I kinda expected to be able to see the hotel from the bus stop, as there were no further instructions.
When I realised it was nowhere near, I thought “shit, if only I’d taken a taxi”. Pulling myself together at nearly 11pm, I went for a walk - telling myself how hard can it be (knowing full well I could be spending the forseeable future wandering aimlessly). Luckily I chose the right direction (I’m uncanny like that sometimes - can sniff out a pub from miles away too) but soon came unstuck when I found myself outside the French Embassy of all places.
It was time to rummage for a map. Any map. Luck would have it that I’d ripped the Riga map out of my Lonely Planet bible only a few hours previously. Upon locating it, and then locating myself on it (a difficult task) by finding a street name, I gave up trying not to look lost and just openly gawped at my map - turning it 36o degrees a number of times to make sure I was where I thought I was.
After that mamouth task, finding the hotel was a piece of cake. On the streets were loads of cafes and night clubs and groups of men. Men looking for other men to hand out strip club cards to. Not being their intended cliental I slipped past - I’d like to say quietly, but was unable to do so due to my suitcase clack-clack-clacking across every single cobble in Riga.
The hotel was super, smashing great. As you would expect any 4 star hotel to be. I’d like to add that this cost the same as the 4 star soviet throw back in Bratislava, so, errrr, well done Riga for being cheaper. The bell boy even carried my suitcase up the stairs, which I thought was very nice. I was in such a flap, that I didn’t notice the pause after he put the suitcase down. I noticed it about 3am and thought baaaah! That akward silence was where I was supposed to be tipping him! D’oh. So, apologies from the dippy english girl.
I took a shower and settled down to watch TV. First couple of channels; nothing just blah blah blah waffle in Latvian. Then the next one caught my ear, becuase it was in fact Orta or Channel One in Russia. Lovely job. I cracked open a bottle of Asti from the mini bar, got into bed and watched possibly *the* most unbelivable story line ever about a man (Maxim) and his crime solving dog (Muhktar). Nevertheless, it was compelling watching and didn’t even flick channels until the end. It was then, as I was idly flicking that I got a porn surprise. There it was: talk show, talk show, crime solving dog, MTV, talk show, adverts, hardcore porn.
OK, so it was about 1am local time now - but I was a little taken back. Of course, out of curiosity I watched it for a while *cough* and then fell asleep.
I was rudely awoken at about 3am by what I thought were really noisey drunks coming back to their room and stumbling around…it was only later that I realised that they wern’t being noisey, oh no, the walls in this place were just paper thin. I felt guilty then about the watching of the porn - everyone must know. At breakfast, I didn’t dare look anyone in the eye. But happily chomped through my own body weight in delicious Latvian cheese and little cakes. Mmmmm cheese.
Set up and ready to go for a hard days touristing, I was a little taken back when I reached one of the main monuments in Riga, (in front of my hotel) The House of the Blackheads. There was no one about. I saw one man taking a picture of it, but that was it. This didn’t bode well, I thought. Riga looks closed :S
House of the Blackheads
I duly stood in awe for a bit and then just kinda wandered off randomly. I’m not sure how it then happened, but I found myself at the train station. Yes, I went all the way to Riga, and did some shopping in a train station precinct. Willing myself to snap out of it, I sat down outside and got out my map.
I wanted to go to the Russian market called “Central Market”…given that this was Central Station where I was, I reasoned that it couldn’t be that far away. It wasn’t on my touristy map though - which is a shame becuase you can buy alot of stuff there much cheaper than in the rest of Riga. I did eventually find it (it’s behind the train station, under a tunnely thing) and bought *the* pointiest boots ever. You just can’t buy boots this pointy anywhere west of Poland, so I was jolly pleased with myself. I also bought a bottle of Kvas for reminising purposes. It wasn’t particularly great kvas and I made a note to make my own back in Blighty.
Not wanting to lose my precious cargo (the boots) I decided to drop them back off at the hotel and hit the museums. Luckily, the museum of occupation was again, just outside of my hotel. Inside, the exhibitions was very moving and I actually learnt quite alot of stuff about life in Latvia under its many occupations.
By the time I’d got out of there, it was dark and I started wandering in the general direction of the touristy places…but as I couldn’t see very much in the dwindling light, I decided to postpone for tomorrow and go general shopping instead in the city. The shops don’t shut til about 8 which I thought was just smashing and it’s times like this that I wished I lived in a big city.
I stopped for my tea in a very nice candle lit cafe, god knows where. The beer was very nice, but I had to eat mushrooms in their vegetarian option. This made me a bit sad, so I had some more beer to make up for it. The staff kept staring at me sat on my own, obviously knowing I was foreign and I got the impression that they felt sorry for me, which in turn made me feel lonely. I was fine until that point! So I decided to be on my merry way, via the loo. It was the scariest loo I’ve ever been in, and this picture doesn’t even come close to showing you what it was like to be in there with the door closed:
Riga toilet
It was black and white checked, all done on a strange angle that made the room feel like it was spinning (no, I hadn’t drank that much beer) and so it was, I think I had the quickest piss ever and ran away from there very quickly.
Back in the hotel, I drank more kvas and rested my legs, which were complaining severly by this point. It was now that I found my notebook too.
Yay! Everything back to being “live”.
Must fight urge to smoke. Cigarettes only 60p here.
If I don’t stop watching Russian TV and loafing on the bed - I’m not actually going to go out at all tonight and just fall asleep.
Fighting urge to sleep also.
Right. Have put on extra pointy boots. They look fucking ace, even if I say so myself.
Finally summoned up enough energy and enough courage to go out. Opted for Paddy Whelans Irish Bar. Just because I’m a chicken and I’m too scared to go into a proper Latvian pub right now.
Am listening to the familiar burr of an Irish accent whilst sipping my expensive Staropramen. I think it’s actually cheaper in Poets Bar (was, sorry. RIP poets)
Now wish I’d sat on a stool at the bar with everyone else instead of hiding around the corner.Patiently waiting for Riga to “wake up” to the lively party city that the internet told me about. I think I’m going to be disappointed.
Checking shoes for wear and tear from the cobbles after the 100 metre walk from the hotel. All OK so far.
You can tell I’m bored right now, huh? I’m writing about checking my shoes.
Now I’m writing about writing about my shoes. Note to self: stop.
May go and buy fags or try to find internet cafe. Am seriously bored now - and am going to be quite pissed waiting for things to “pick up”. Just overheard Irish chap on the phone talking about his mate Shamus. I thought Shamus was like, a joke Irish name - I never realised people were actually called that. Almost LOLed.
OK, so I left Paddy’s in search of some fags or an internet cafe - whatever came first. I found neither, and was cheching out all the bars and cafes on the way: absolutely dead.
I eventually found myself in Rimmings (or some such name) the 24 hour supermarket. Yes, that’s right; instead of being out in this “crazy” city, I was buying crisps and sanitary towels. Conclusion: don’t come to Riga on your own if you’re a girl looking for fun, Riga only caters for the more…how to say…”loose” man.
Maybe in the summer it’s a lot more fun. Who knows.
I actually found myself wanting to bump into the so called “shedloads” of Brits on a stag do - just for someone to talk to. Coming to my senses, that I hate stag and hens equally - thankfully there were none (that I saw)
Riga in December seems to be more suited to couples going for candle lit meals. *humpf*
So, I gave up on exploring the nightlife and habbled back to the hotel, wondering if I needed a hip replacement at 28.
Here I am, 11pm scoffing crisps and chocolate, sipping on kvas rather than sex on the beach. Boots survived the cobbles though, so that’s some consolation.
Am watching porn. Being amazed at the size of these guys schlongs. They’re a bit weeble like in their errectness - so big that if they physically flopped about, even though hard. I’m thinking that this skinny guy would faint if all the blood necessary for a fully-stood to attention member was acheived. What an odd thought. Why do they also put tinkly background lift music with the porn too?
It was very crap porn - the girl kinda sucked them off like a rag doll would (I imagined) very difficult to explain. Have decided to have an early night instead of doing porn critiques. (Except that I actually ended up watching the crime solving Russian dog serial instead - am hooked. Still don’t know what the name of the program is…must google it)
3rd and final day of travels
Good job I set my alarm for 9am as I think I could easily have slept til 12. Have to admit that I don’t actually feel very well. Yesterday it was creeping in, although I tried to deny it - my cough and grogginess tell otherwise though.
Had very hot shower and let the water run for ages on my hip - trying to put all thoughts of osteoporosis out of my mind. It works. Maybe 28 isn’t that old after all.
I try and round up all of my pants that are strewn around the hotel room and generally pack - paying special attention to pointy boots, gently wrapping up in my jeans.
I guiltily pay my minibar tab, put my luggage into storage (not having to face train station attentants - yay!) and head out for the day.
Decide to follow the guide book “trail” and see all of the missed places of attraction from yesterday. Get hideously lost after 2 minutes. Chastise myself for now being able to follow very simple map, no matter how many times I turn it upside down!
Realise that I actually pretty much saw all of the sights yesterday without realising it.
I decided to save the (what I thought was) the best bit for last: Riga Castle. After spending a good 20 minutes trying to find it, accidently ending back up outside the hotel - I resorted to using the river for navigation and eventually found the “castle”. Was a bit miffed - blink and you’d miss it - in fact I went around it twice (fwapping over the presidential soldiers stamping about on parade in the cold).
Latvian soldiers
You can’t go in, so in my book, I think the castle is best seem from the road. Inside a nice warm tourist bus
My nose is running incessantly now and I have my hanky clamped to it permanently. Nice.
Decided to get in the warm somewhere - a museum. Continuing my war theme - I opted for the Latvia War Museum. It was great - although not in English, and my Russian wasdn’t always up to deciphering long waffling official documents - so I just looked at the pictures and stuff. Well worth a visit if you like soldiery type things like me.
After that - I tried to go to the skyline bar for a bird’s eye view of Riga - but I completely failed to find it. What I did find though was this little bridge that I’d read about on t’internet where couples go and put padlocks on with their names engraved on and then throw the key into the water as a symbol of their never ending love.
God, at this point reading all the names (mostly in Russian) that I had to choke back tears at my own fwapped up life. Probably not the best place to visit for people with broken hearts. That is all.
After this episode, I needed some serious cheering up - so decided to go looking for some pointy shoes at Central Market. Managed to get lost *again* and didn’t even make any purchases, except for 2 voblas as a present.
By now (4pm) it was getting dark. Feck, I thought. I wanted to find Skyline Bar to take some pictures. By the time I got there it was too dark to even bother taking any. The view is fantastic though - definately worth the expensive drink price.
I immediately identified myself as a foreigner there - because I went to the bar to order a drink, instead of sitting down and making use of the lovely waitresses. D’oh. Note to self: stop being so British.
Am really missing the internets now. Might get on a mission to find t’internet cafe in a minute.
What I actually found was god though. Possibly. I went into the big orthadox cathedral near the Skyline and had an experience not unlike being on shrooms.
Now, they say that magic mushrooms are like a short cut to tapping into bigger spiritual wossnames, so I can quite believe it was a godly moment.
There was incence, candles, chanting and singing. I didn’t want to move anywhere and found myself unable to leave. I had a bit of a wander around the icons and wondered why some of them had loads of candles and some had none. I already knew that different saints “looked after” different stuff - so I wondered what the popular ones were. I knew when I was last in an orthadox church, we lit a candle for my Nan and put it with the saints that makes people better - and that was quite a full one. Am wondering what the unpopular ones were for though?
At one point there was one..err…vicar type dude who kept coming and going, and as he left, what can only be described as the singing room he disappeared off behind a panel in one of the walls. This was not before turning around and giving me a look. I think he knew I didn’t belong there
After this, I realised I was hungry and traipsed to find the Lido restaurant (a help yourself job) that my book mentioned and I’d seen earlier. It’s really fab in there - for less than £2 I had a beer and a big vegetable rice thingy. This was where the locals ate. Except for one loud American who was busy asking what everything was. Loudly.
At this point - it’s about 6pm and I still have 37 quid in Lats on me. I’m never going to get rid of it I think - so try and spend it on stuff I would have bought anyway. I’d been wanting a 1Gb card for my phone/mp3 player for ages so I had a gander for one - cheapest was £22. Having seen one in Slovakia for £6, I really don’t want to part with that much cash for one, so I wonder off looking for more shoes.
This time my wandering took me fooking miles away. I was accidently in a really, really dodgy part of town getting soaked by rain in the strong winds. Desperately trying to look local and not get mugged - I looked for a familiar building on the skyline. Nothing.
Feckity. I’m just going to have to follow someone and hope that they’re going somewhere nice - near civilisation. The person I picked really didn’t want to be followed and tried to slow down so that I overtook them. I didn’t want to (not knowing where the feck the road went) so I slowed too. I think they probably thought I was going to mug them, so when I turned the corner and saw the Riga clock I was relieved anough to stop following them. Sorry, whoever you are! I was only about 1/2 mile out of town. What a bumkin.
Drenched and miserable by now, I step up my efforts to find an internet cafe, which I eventually did. The girl on the desk had been trained by the Bratislavian luggage man I think.
I skurried in and got the distinct impression that every PC was *very* infected, and that all of my passwords would be stolen before I’d even logged in. Nevertheless - I got into Skype and looked for some friendly faces. There were none, so I sent some emails and read B3ta until my 30 minutes were up.
Back out into the driving rain I went, and decided just to fuck off back to the airport.
I picked up my luggage and headed for what I thought was the closest bus stop on 11 Novembre street. I looked and looked and only saw a stop for bus 22b. I needed 22. Time was ticking on, so I thought - arse - I know where Kathedrale is, so I clack-clacked my way back through the old town.
I had 10 minutes wait for the bus, where I droppped my glove, canvas bag and then wallet into a puddle. I didn’t notice the bag for a while as I was trying to count out all the shitty change to give to the bus driver
Not one person at the bus stop pointed it out to me. I’m undecided about whether Latvians are friendly or not. Certainly not like the Dutch, who are always so happy to speak to you, so on that score I reckon they’re 50 50. 50% nice and 50% hostile. A neutral rating, given that I didn’t really have a decent conversation with any of them *humpf*
Airport musings: this kinda relates to the “are Eastern European girls more pretty than Brits”. The girl I’d sat near on the bus had long hair, long legs, was skinny and wore high heels and despite the inclemant weather - looked lovely. I, however, looked and felt like a drowned rat. I felt even more like crap stood next to her!
Waiting for the plane, I saw the Glasgow Ryanair flight come in. No one was getting off. How strange I thought, as most flights involve a scrum to get to the doors nowadays. In a leisurely manner, the police came and took 2 chaps off the plane. I got the impression they were 2 scots who’d just got beered up a lairy on the plane. What a smashing weekend they’ll have!
And then the ceiling dripped onto my head. And it was there that the European facade crumbled, and I felt more like I was in Sheremetyevo. It was depressingly soviet. I also got to watch all of the Ryanair stewardesses running of the flights to buy the cheap fags from duty free, and I realised - what a great sideline! I guess they need to subsidise their crappy Ryanair pay and conditions somehow.
On the flight I was sat next to 3 lads who’d obviously gone to Riga for the *cough* nightlife. They were discussing which stewardess they’d like to shag. I was concentrating on yet another bizarre Ryanair sign. I wish I’d taken a photo, because for me it looked like the picture was saying, if you see a fire, don’t leave. Bejesus, are the emergency doors just painted on or something??
On a closing note, here is some invaluable information about Riga:
Tram number 7 goes to the Dole. I didn’t try it (been there, done that - got the depressing government issue “I fucking own you, I can ask whatever questions I like of you, scum” t-shirt)
There’s a sports club on the outskirts of town called “optimistic”. Bless.
Signs often point to walls or across rivers. They mean, as the crow flies, rather than practical directions.
Verdict: go in the summer. Go with someone you love.
Worth going? For the pointy shoes alone, yes!
Oh, and learn Russian before you go.
Moosh