Get out of jail free
OK, so it’s high time I wrote about just how the hell I got out of Russia on a *very* expired visa. I was scouring the internet when I was in this predicament, and couldn’t find anything of any use other than “you’re fucked matey”. So…for anyone in the same boat - this is how I did it:
First of all - I should mention that I *did* go through all hoop-jumping process of applying for residency permission - it’s just that the system is such an arse there that it’s practically impossible to actually get anywhere with regards to submitting paperwork of any kind to your local friendly police station. I’d also overstayed a previous visa and had to get an exit visa and so forth, so when I approached them for a second exit visa they told me to naff off - the only way out of the country after over-staying a visa by such a long time (a number of months *cough*) was to be deported! And I should count myself lucky that they didnt start deporting procedures there and then. (Basically they were going to count to 10 and hope I wasn’t still in the office, nice bloke really Mr Shtompel)
Shit. This was my first thought. An expired Russian visa is not a good thing to have. There must be a way out without getting deported from Russia and then subsequently banned from re-entering for 5 years. So my thoughts then turned to other countries surrounding Russia - because if you can just get across the border - you’ll be OK I thought to myself.
Belarus seemed to be the most simple option to get out, but of course I’d need a Belarussian visa to enter Belarus. This would have been impossible as it would mean taking my passport to the Belarussian embassy who I thought would take one look at it and have me booted out of the country. Finland also seemed like a good option, but it was a far too busy route and by that I mean it was popular and likely to have well-guarded border crossings. Then it came to me: Ukraine! It was almost poo-pooed because of the need for visas there, but luck would have it that they won the Eurovision Song Contest and would be hosting it during the summer of 2005. They’d suspended visas for that time for EU Nationals. Ohhhhhh yes. The plan was starting to come together.
So I queued up, booked my ticket on an overnight train to “Chop” on the border of Ukraine and Hungary (much cheaper than booking a ticket straight through to Budapest - Russia doesn’t class Ukraine as abroad). At first I bought just a standard ticket - but on the recommendation of a friend I queued up again and changed it to “soft class” becuase the guards are less likely to go in the posher carriages, apparently. They usually just hassle Ukrainians in the normal carriages going home for having no registration etc etc.
The day finally came. It was a Saturday night - which I thought would be the best night to cross the border (visions of guards being too drunk to care or what not). I packed up my stuff, not knowing if or when I would be coming back to Russia. That was very hard deciding what to take - this was a very unexpected need to return to Blighty. I changed about 200 quids worth of roubles in to dollars (just incase the guards needed “persuading” to let me go) and headed for Kievsky train station.
Tears were rolling down my face as it hit me that this could be the last time I see Moscow for a very long time, but I had one last hurdle to get through - the line of Moscow militsia checking people getting on the train. Luckily, a group of dark-skinned people caught their attention and they hassled them instead and I slipped past without notice (unlike the first time my paperwork was out of date, and I spent a happy half hour in the cells denying that I spoke any Russian)
The next few hours on the train were painfully tense and incredibly hot. The carriage was nice and in it already was a very nice Ukrainian chap who I asked not to tell the train supervisors that I wasn’t Russian. And when they did come along the train asking for nationalities - Ukrainian and Russian came the reply from our carriage…somehow I got away with it. I don’t know what they do with this information, but I did think that it would draw the attention of the border guards if they found out that there was a Brit girl on board.
Whale was sat back in Blighty getting a torrent of texts as I was heading towards the border, on the top bunk trying to stay calm. I think she may well have been as tense as I was, as the train guard banged on all the carriage doors to wake us up for the border crossing.
Looking out of the window at the display outside I saw that our train wasn’t due to leave the border for 45 minutes. This was bad news. 45 minutes, I thought would be plenty of time checking the whole train. On the next platform was a Ukrainian train, waiting to enter Russia and I could see guards in *every* carriage. This did not help my already fast beating heart. 45 Minutes felt like forever and there were all kinds of banging and shouting from the guards…at one point I heard guards entering our train carriage at the far end. That was it - the game was up I thought. And then - silence. Followed by the train very very slowly moving.
I didn’t even dare look out of the window as we left the border, as the Ukrainian guy said that there were in fact 2 stops on the border - once for customs, and once for passports. I just led there, in the dark waiting for the train to stop again. I think at least 1/2 hour passed and the dark landscape gave no clue as to where I was.
In fact the next time the train stopped, I looked out of the window and saw……….border guards wearing yellow and blue! Now *this* is when I jumped off the top bunk, and starting woo and yaying - I was definately in Ukraine! I was free! If I could have bottled that feeling, I could sell it for thousands. Finally - no more looking over my shoulder. I was no longer an illegal immigrant
When the rather dashing Ukrainian border guard entered our carriage - he did a double take on my passport and called out to his mate “We’ve got a British one in here!” He looked through all my Russian visas and stamps, looked at me, looked at the visa I entered Russia on, looked at me again and it was then that he knew just why I was on that train. He asked if I knew about Ukrainian visas - so I repled that I currently didnt need one. Thank the lord for the Eurovision! He then decided to take my passport off the train and disappeared with it. I knew there was nothing they could do - I was on Ukrainian soil, not Russian. He returned 10 minutes or so later and stamped my passport with “3 days only” which was fine, as I’d be out of Ukraine by the next day. Not sure of what reception I’ll get if I go to Ukraine again, but I will never forget the joy at seeing the colours yellow and blue
If anyone is currently stuck in Russia in a similar position, please contact me and I will try and offer some advice!
[edit - Ukraine scrapped the need for visas for all EU citizens in Sept 05 (I think) following a sucessful pilot during the Eurovision. *cough* Not entirely helped by Moosh using their country to sneak through
]
-moosh
Tags: Russia, Russian visas, Russian trains, Expired Russian visas, Border crossing